Just a few hundred metres east of Artesania El Gran Condor is the entrance to the Cascadas de Peguche, an 18m-high waterfall that plunges out of the thick forest.
In the thick forest-savannah mosaic of northern Congo, many days' walk from any tarmac, your correspondent unearthed a milestone, half-buried in the leaf-litter, pointing to the small town of Badai, 15km to the east.
Orchha was an ideal place to build a capital as the town is sheltered by thick forest, which is probably the reason that these age-old monuments still exist in excellent condition, despite there being no major preservation efforts.
We climb over the fence and enter a thick bamboo forest, heading steeply uphill.
Whichever you choose, make sure to wear hiking boots and leech socks -- the forest floor is muddy and thick with small, innocuous leeches.
At the Sariska Wildlife Preserve in India, there is thick forest, there's plenty of water and plenty to eat.
We left the rocky alpine pinnacle, where a beautiful view of thick forest and tantalizing, sparkling lakes extended for miles in every direction, and began our descent.
Many miles later, the road is but a faint single track in a thick bamboo forest.
Drive east and you see the same, an undulent landscape carpeted with buildings completed or under construction, roads thick with traffic, and a few forlorn patches of the original Atlantic Forest or more recently transplanted eucalyptus trees to break up the relentless jumble of concrete.
It was a damp day and, after he had parked the van and set off down the forest track, even the noise of the Edinburgh-Glasgow motorway was muffled by thick, dark fir trees.
The militants have had years to entrench positions that are dug into mountainous terrain of goat tracks, caves and thick forest.
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