Carpet-bagging politicians rolled up in Mercedes cars with tinted windows, alongside turbaned Shia clerics and baggy-trousered Druze elders.

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Among the men patrolling the streets are Arabic-speaking turbaned Chadians, though it is not clear that Chad's government approves their presence.

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Many Egyptians have been thrilled to see Christians and Muslims, including robed priests and turbaned Azharite scholars, mingling cheerfully in the square.

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This game is played in moments, one turbaned enemy popping up from behind cover, another rushing at you from behind a door.

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Within days of our arrival, a turbaned craftsman had laid out a piece of local fabric with cotton shirts, wooden souvenirs and Tuareg silver knives.

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For centuries, silver-bearded turbaned craftsmen from Fez and Meknes had been coming to work in the ancient mosques and palaces of Marrakech, instructing sloe-eyed youths in their arts.

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Then he makes them wade through a busy bazaar in what looks like the old city, peopled by loin-clothed turbaned men, wiry and harassed-looking policemen and ragged children.

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