The chef set up a table for one in the corner of the kitchen, and I feasted on foie gras, truffled vermicelli and scallops.

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But since the menus are decided by committee every day with input from French-American sous-chef Philippe Shapiro and others, dishes can veer in any direction, such as the crowd-pleasing Vietnamese-style lobster salad with vermicelli, mango, and a carrot vinaigrette that turned up as a starter one night.

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Make sure to stop by Hashem, the finest falafel cafe in the country bar none (it has a picture of King Hussein dining here on its wall, if you need any further recommendation) and Habibah, a hole-in-the-wall baker selling Palestinian knafeh, a syrupy vermicelli-like pastry that locals swear by.

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