But it's absolutely the best source of that most elusive of beverages affordable white Burgundy.

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We had a blowout sushi dinner with a couple of bottles of good Montrachet (white burgundy).

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"Slightly soapy odd palate - hope it comes round, " they remark of a particular white Burgundy in 2008.

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That helped to win over even the least Chardonnay-friendly friend: "These are better values than white Burgundy, " he proclaimed.

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He seems like a thoughtful, even philosophical, fellow and his palate is clearly refined (he loves white Burgundy) but he's no snob.

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On the other hand, a great Sancerre can be a comparative bargain, costing a fraction of the price of a grand cru white Burgundy.

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If the dish contains lots of raw vegetables, pair it with a light, fresh wine, such as an Old World Sauvignon Blanc, a white Burgundy or a Chablis.

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Judicious purchases of red Bordeaux, red and white Burgundy, a small parcel of port and some Champagne not from one of the major grand marques but an individual grower should provide happy drinking for the next decade or so.

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While Chardonnay grew to fame as "white Burgundy, " Pinot Gris began turning up in odd corners of the wine world under murky aliases: In France alone, Pinot Gris is also known as Tokay d'Alsace, Pinot Beurot in Burgundy and Malvoisie in the Loire.

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