Please do not discuss your feelings about carbs, white flour, white sugar, eating fats, the use of bovine growth hormone, the conditions under which chickens are raised or your latest diet plan, should you be on one.

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Ms. Warner recounts what life was like in poor areas before the introduction of vitamins into food substances, the fortification of white flour and milk, and the widespread availability of items like orange juice: Many people suffered from rickets (because of insufficient vitamin D and calcium), scurvy (vitamin C), pellagra (vitamin B3) and beriberi (vitamin B1).

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Using Victorian machinery means the flour produced has to be wholemeal (to make brown or white, for example, would involve sifting out the bran, a process beyond traditional watermill technology), which goes into such products as the home-baked bara brith, a Welsh fruitcake made with dried fruit soaked in tea.

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