My go-to Saturday morning recipe is an old one that owes its pleasant acidic edge to a shot of white vinegar a substitute for what would have been sour milk in thriftier times, when cooks were loathe to let any ingredient go to waste.

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It is accompanied by a homemade chutney of Muscat Hamburg grapes, shallots, white-wine vinegar and sugar served from a specially constructed marble mortar.

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