Whisk the mustard, wine vinegar and the rest of the oil with a splash of water.

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Ten years ago, Cleveland chef Jonathon Sawyer bought a fancy brand of red wine vinegar and found it lacking.

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At the Sawyers' ramen spot, Noodle Cat, the Japanese plum wine vinegar adds depth to the dashi broth that flavors various dishes.

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It is accompanied by a homemade chutney of Muscat Hamburg grapes, shallots, white-wine vinegar and sugar served from a specially constructed marble mortar.

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And he serves as a knowledgeable, amiable host to a day out exploring the local artisan food and wine producers olive oil, honey, cheese, vinegar and the small crustacean Yabbies among them.

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