The shallow water wave theory is employed in the description of tidal flows.
潮流场计算是基于浅水波理论。
If the wave is small, then you are probably still in shallow water and can jump over it.
如果波浪不大，那么你可能还是在浅水中，你可以跳过波浪。
In this paper, based on the computerized symbolic computation, solutions of variable-coefficient the generalized shallow water wave equation are obtained.
利用该方法，运用计算机符号计算，求出了变系数的一般浅水波方程的孤子解。
Once a wave breaks, a shallow layer of water glides along the shore, carrying sediment with it.
一旦断裂，一层浅浅的水携带着泥沙滑向海岸。
The phenomenon of solitary wave generated by the ship in shallow water can be observed.
有限水深的条件下，在临界速度附近可以观察到浅水船行波特有的孤独波现象。
The FFT algorithm is used to realize wave molding. The deep-water waves, shallow water waves, surface waves are molded by the FFT algorithm.
在水波建模方面，本文除了用FFT算法来实现水波建模，还给出了深水波、浅水波、表面波在FFT算法基础上的实现。
The model system is made up of two main sections, the calculating module for shallow water wave transformation, the calculating module for harbor wave diffraction.
本文模型系统主要由两部分组成，波浪浅水变形计算模块和港内波浪绕射计算模块。
The numerical results agree with those of available literatures and show that the method is robust and stable for getting the discontinuous solutions of the shallow water wave equation.
计算结果与已有文献结果基本一致，证明该方法有效、稳定，能够模拟浅水长波方程中的间断解问题。
As an example, an experiment study of wind-wave spectrum in shallow water is compeleted to emphasize the superiority and importance of laboratory study.
最后，通过浅水波能谱试验，说明了推广与应用试验研究的价值和意义。
In chapter 5, the classification of the traveling wave solutions of shallow water wave systems is studied.
第五章讨论了浅水波系统行波的分类问题。
In chapter 6, the orbital stability and linear stability of the solitary wave solutions of shallow water wave systems is discussed.
第六章讨论了浅水波系统孤立波的稳定性问题。
In this paper, variable separation solution and soliton excitations of the (1 + 1) -dimensional generalised shallow water wave equation are obtained.
研究(1 + 1)维广义的浅水波方程的变量分离解和孤子激发模式。
Some new ideas on "limiting wave height" in shallow water is given by analyzing the cause of this physical phenomenon.
简单分析了产生这一物理现象的原因，对波浪在浅水中的“极限波高”有了一些新的认识。
The effect of mean sea level rise is shown by the standing tide wave in the shallow Water areas of the continental shelf.
属于大陆边缘海域的中国黄海，海平面上升影响的显著性，通过驻波作用明显地表现出来。
In simulating the wave in shallow water area, the rationality of numerical procedure with characteristics inlaid scheme will directly affect the numerically simulated results of wave.
在进行浅水区域的海浪模拟时，特征线嵌入格式的数值计算方案是否合理对海浪数值模拟结果产生直接的影响。
In this paper, some basic problems of nonlinear shallow water wave model are studied.
本文对浅水非线性波模型的若干基础问题进行研究。
It is pointed out that the WKB method can be applied to a wider kind of partial differential equations. The method is applied to linearized shallow water wave equations.
本文首先指出WK B方法可适用于更广泛的一类方程，并把它应用于线性化浅水波方程。
Therefore, a new mixed characteristics numerical computational scheme is proposed for the LAGFD-WAM numerical wave model and is applied in simulating the shallow water wave in this paper.
为此LAGFD -WAM海浪数值模式提出了一种新的特征线混合数值计算格式，并应用于浅水海浪数值模拟。
The simplified Kochin function and the corresponding linear wave resistance formula for shallow water are derived by an analysis of the order of magnitude and approximation.
借助量级分析和近似处理，导出了简化浅水柯钦函数和相应的浅水线性波阻公式。
Therefore, the study of higher-order nonlinear approximate to shallow water waves enriches the water wave dynamics and is crucial to engineering practice.
因此，研究非线性浅水波的高阶渐近解对丰富近海水波动力学理论和指导工程实践均具有重要意义。
We successfully derived some exact solitary wave solutions of the nonlinear approximate equations with long waves in shallow water by using the hyperbola function method.
用双曲函数法，成功得到了非线性浅水长波近似方程组的精确孤立波解。
With the wide use of very large FPSO in shallow water of Bohai Bay, a new subject concerning the effects of water depth on wave-induced loads response of FPSO appears.
随着浅水超大型FPSO在渤海湾海域的广泛应用，水深对波浪诱导载荷的影响成为新的热点课题。
The model has high accuracy and can be used to study wave deformation, refraction, diffraction and reflection in deep water and shallow water.
该模型可用于研究深水和浅水地区波浪的浅水变形、折射、绕射和反射。
The calculation model of peak pressure was obtained and the diffraction and transmission effects of explosion shock wave on concrete frustum in shallow water were analyzed.
获得了迎爆面中心反射压力峰值计算模型；分析了两个装药浅层水中爆炸冲击波对混凝土墩绕射及透射作用效应。
In the text, we used equivalent shallow water model and truncated model method to analyse the stability of the jet, and pointed out the conditions of the appearing of instable wave.
本文应用等值浅水模式，采用截断模方法，分析了急流的稳定性，并给出急流上不稳定波出现的条件。
The shallow water tide wave model and its adjoint model are used to make the optimization test for the initial fields of current velocity and water level.
利用浅水潮波模式及其共轭模式进行了流速和水位的初始场优化试验。
With the wide use of very large FPSO in shallow water of Bohai Bay, a new subject concerning the effects of water depth on wave induced loads response of FPSO appears.
随着浮式生产储油系统在渤海浅水海域的广泛应用，水深对FPSO运动与波浪载荷的影响问题突现出来。
The wave state in front of vertical walls was studied by model tests of irregular waves in shallow water.
通过浅水不规则波模型试验，研究了直立墙前的波浪型态。
In chapter 7, the application of shallow water wave systems in the research of tsunamis models is studied.
第七章讨论了浅水波系统在海啸模型研究中的应用。
The effects of the sea sediment parameters and center frequency of the source on the low frequency acoustic wave propagation in shallow water are investigated.
考察了海底沉积物参数、声源激发主频等对低频声传播的影响。
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