In the course of the propagation of deep water waves to the shoal water zone, the distribution of the surface elevation and the wave spectrum will be changed due to shoaling effect.
深水海浪向近岸传播过程中，由于变浅作用，其波面高度分布，波谱都发生了变化。
The analysis is divided into two parts: 1 computation of the velocity flow field and water surface elevation, and 2 computation of the pollutant concentration field from the dispersion model.
分析包括两个部分：1流场速度、水面高度的计算；2根据扩散模型计算污染物浓度场。
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