The unique (and secret) agenda, researched by tour founder Jed Rothenberg, ties together three classic locations that focus on fading, male-oriented local arts -- the straight razor shave, acustom hat workshop and a classic cigar bar.
Two days later, in the capital of Khartoum, we walked the streets, rode a city bus to the confluence of the Blue and White Niles, chatted with dozens of Sudanese, and, after dark, found a street-food stall for a meal of goat, eaten with our fingers as per localcustom.