Just a few hundred metres east of Artesania El Gran Condor is the entrance to the Cascadas de Peguche, an 18m-high waterfall that plunges out of thethickforest.
In thethick forest-savannah mosaic of northern Congo, many days' walk from any tarmac, your correspondent unearthed a milestone, half-buried in the leaf-litter, pointing to the small town of Badai, 15km to the east.
Orchha was an ideal place to build a capital as the town is sheltered by thickforest, which is probably the reason that these age-old monuments still exist in excellent condition, despite there being no major preservation efforts.