And Neil Perry's Rockpool is a perennial favorite for tasting menus that rival Tetsuya's in the creative use of local ingredients such asa salad of green lip abalone, mussel, clam, tea-smoked oysters and noodles with truffle oil and mushroom soy dressing.
As consulting chef to Windows on the World, I knew we had a winner in White Clam Risotto with Whole-Poached Lobster in Green Sauce, with its title's promise of festive and unusual flavors.
As you toss the pasta and sauce, the goal is to build an emulsion between the clam juice, oil and as many spoonfuls of pasta water as it takes to create a uniform texture.