Ravens strut and croak on the medieval ramparts, and a faint peal of bells echoes from the church.

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Finally, our train heaves out of the station and past the creeks of Mombasa Island, belching out plumes of thick smoke as we swoop around shanty towns where corrugated iron roofs glisten in the rain, and ditches where frogs croak in the darkness.

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Guests are kept company by a chorus of coqui, the ubiquitous native frog whose iambic croak gives it its name and Puerto Rico its natural soundtrack.

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And does waiting for your owner to croak really constitute a viable business plan?

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