The degustation options are designed according to what is abundant, seasonal and fresh.

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The degustation menu changes daily, but look for the ceviche (often tinged with spearmint) and always save room for dessert.

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French technique meets Japanese elegance around a traditional garden at the upscale Tetsuya's, where there is just one coveted degustation menu.

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It features a seven-course degustation menu matched with champagne, cocktails and wines -- topped off with a glass of 25-year-old Zacapa rum, Italian chocolate and Cuban cigars.

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The chef, Matt Rojas, is neither French nor Vietnamese, but his previous work, at Degustation and Eleven Madison Park, has paved the way for an imaginative approach and an expertise in packing delicate morsels with many calories.

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