Order casoncelli, a typical dish of tortellini stuffed with meat, breadcrumbs and cheese served with melted butter and sage, at the family-run Osteria al Bianchi, while excellent pizzas are available at the tiny Pizzeria Manuno.

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As soon as we walked in, our host, Ellen-Anna Siri, welcomed us with an enormous dish of stew - of reindeer meat, of course - and exactly what we needed.

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The national spice-of-choice, aji, is best enjoyed in the signature Arequipa dish, rocoto relleno: spicy red peppers stuffed with ground meat and potatoes, and topped with cream and cheese.

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The donburi, a traditional Japanese dish that consists of rice and savoury toppings, can be ordered with US flavours like taco meat (spiced minced pork), creole chicken or shrimp patties instead of teriyaki meats.

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Young people with whom I chatted in Ulsan believe that whale meat is an older person's dish, a taste forged in the harsh after-flames of World War II.

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