My guide, Boikago Wandumbi, paddled he and I out, standing in the back of the canoe like a Venetian gondolier, using a long pole to propel us forward.

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He was - I think he was found guilty of ethics violations or of, like, a gift of a canoe from the Coca-Cola Bottlers that he did not report.

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The final hour-and-a-half is by banca, a small motorized canoe that uses wing-like lateral floats that extend a few meters from the boat to help navigate choppy waters.

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