Edell wound up constructing a 600-square-foot library in his Mendocino County, Calif. home to house his collection.

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Much closer to home, the company closed on a sizable purchase in the Pine Mountain-Cloverdale Peak appellation of California's Mendocino County.

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By the Mendocino County line you are surrounded by tan, wide-open cowboy country, which gives way to the gentle green vineyards of Anderson Valley, then to dark corridors of redwoods, with shafts of sunshine piercing the gloom like smoky spotlights.

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We finished with the first two vintages of Burt's new wine (crafted after the expiration of his noncompete clause), the 2008 and 2009 Morning Dew Ranch Pinot, from a vineyard he planted in the Anderson Valley in Mendocino County, a very promising region for Pinot that, when he first bought in a decade ago, was almost as obscure as the Russian River Valley had been.

WSJ: How Burt Williams Became Pinot's Patron Saint | On Wine by Jay McInerney