He substituted crab for shrimp, the Ritz's fresh cream of mushroom soup for the canned variety called for, and nixed the extra mushrooms.

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Especially noteworthy: the creamless porcini mushroom soup and the grilled sliced sirloin steak with peppercorn sauce. l Eleven Madison Park -- 11 Madison Ave.

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The menu is primarily contemporary Italian, featuring dishes such as porcini mushroom soup, eggplant parmigiana served in puff pastry, and branzino with celery root puree, tomato, capers and fresh oregano.

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The soup choices will include tomato and mushroom, and three seasonal choices.

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