My short walk home passes a small, rather dingy square, the graffiti-covered Piazza San Apollonia, where a disused butcher's shop, an ironmongers and a tiny comedy theatre are all that remain of the final act in this famous love affair.

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As I explained in my piece on the Melvan, part of the fervor surrounding the Melvan is due to some curious graffiti of rock group KISS drawn by the late Nirvana frontman Kurt Cobain.

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