Once past the turning beyond Namche Bazaar and into the Gokyo valley, the spread of settlement diminishes and a more natural Nepal appears.

BBC: Nepal��s other Everest

Sherpas store toilet and kitchen waste in metal drums and haul it 50km down to the town of Namche Bazaar, where it is used for compost.

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Spending nights at the villages of Phortse Tenga (3, 700m), Dole (4, 200m), Machhermo (4, 500m) and Gokyo (4, 800m) offers a comfortable four-day approach to the foot of the mountain from Namche Bazaar, ascending gradually through the thinning air.

BBC: Nepal��s other Everest