Next morning, I stand on Bourke's reconstructed old wharf and look down at the olive-green Darling River.

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Vincent was leaning against a white Land Rover, clad in an olive-green safari jacket and flanked by the camp's two smiling caretakers.

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In the late 1980s, the egalitarian army retired the baggy olive-green pants and jackets and took on tailored uniforms, complete with stars, flaps and epaulets.

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We sent the gentlest eddies through the olive-green waters.

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Upstairs, designer David Mitchell created a serene guest-bedroom color scheme of olive green, rust, chocolate brown and khaki.

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John Dory and caramelized fennel, green garlic, bouillabaisse jus, and black olive crostini enhanced by a full-bodied Feudi di San Gregorio 2007 Falanghina--I could go on (and we did, well into a third dessert), but suffice it to say that thanks to some thoughtful updating, the Mansion has reasserted itself among the Lone Star State's elite.

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