That led to a job at Yves Saint Laurent and a three-year stint with Christian Lacroix, at the dizzying height of the designer's pouf-dress glory days.

WSJ: Christophe Lemaire's Understated Glamour

He began with mostly black, white and navy daywear including form-fitting knits, coats with a slight pouf on the shoulders, a puffer jacket lined in shearling, nautical inspired tops, and jackets with military decoration.

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