Like in a cab headed to Salt Lick BBQ outside of Austin.

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Scott Roberts, owner, The Salt Lick, Driftwood , Texas, rated the number one barbecue restaurant in the country by the Travel Channel.

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Until the restaurant's own 35-acre vineyard is mature enough, other local wines can be tasted and bought at Salt Lick Cellars and brought over to the restaurant.

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That's why he appreciates the growing number of eateries offering local fare, from Dish D'Lish in Seattle's Sea-Tac airport to Salt Lick BBQ in Austin-Bergstrom International airport.

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Good ribs are all over the place, but the best brisket is in Texas, and to me that means The Salt Lick, a rock-your-world temple of fire, smoke and meat outside Austin.

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The Salt Lick actually serves up the best beef ribs imaginable, my personal favorite, but their most popular item is brisket and thanks to the size of the cut and the care they take, it loses little in translation.

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The owner told me that the mail order version gives 95% of the eat-in taste, which is a fair estimate, and believe me, 95% of the Salt Lick brisket is better than 100% of whatever you have in your neighborhood.

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Having already spent a night at the Ark, a quirky Noah's Ark-like lodge tucked into the thick, verdant forests of Kenya's Aberdare National Park, I was familiar with the drill: one bell meant elephants arriving to the salt lick and watering hole that the back of the lodge overlooks.

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He fled to his turreted home in Salt Lake City to lick his wounds.

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