The waves conceal whales, dolphins and sea turtles, and the western beaches are covered with armies of blue-backed soldier crabs that rear up on their hind legs and flee in panic at the approach of a human foot.

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We saw some even clamber on to an armoured personnel carrier and dance with the troops and another soldier laughing and wrapping himself in the blue flag of Suez.

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At 2.20pm on Wednesday, a small blue Vauxall Tigra hatchback with blacked-out windows mounts the sidewalk of Artillery Place and mows down a soldier.

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