Some restaurants, like the Ning Po Residents Association, require a nominal annual fee (around 200 Hong Kong dollars), but in return you gain access to excellent food (in this case, recipes from the city of Ningbo, near Shanghai, such as delicate, juicy soup dumplings and sweet-and-sour fish), in an exclusive but usually unpretentious setting.

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WATER-COOKED FISH is a Sichuan preparation of poached white fish and wilted cabbage in a sweet-sour broth slicked with chili oil.

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