Because a surfer stays just ahead of the break, a wave that breaks very slowly carries him straight towards shore at only the speed of the wave.
But a variant of the technique, which involves measuring changes in the speed of the reflected wave, can reveal information about moisture.
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After the wave's shape, the speed of the break is the most important factor in good surf.
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Second, they have shed light on something else originally studied by Dr Walker: the optimal speed of the break across the face of the wave.
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You will also get additional conformation from the speed of the sell off from the end point of the third wave up.
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In much the same way that a surfer rides a wave, the bubble of space containing the ship and its passengers would be pushed at velocities not limited to the speed of light toward a destination.
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