"Everybody that had an instrument or knew how to yodel or dance would meet in people's homes, " Ockelmann says.

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Blackberry's four cheeses--Singing Brook, Violet, Trefoil and Blackberry Blue--are made by cheesemaker Kristian Holbrook and his assistants, who the day I visited included a fresh-faced young woman named Heidi, lacking only a dirndl and a yen to yodel to pass for a Swiss milkmaid.

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At different stages along each trail, the phones -- aided by the built-in GPS -- alert visitors to particular points of interest by sounding a yodel.

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