The most common way to get around Siem Reap is to hop on rickshaws (the locals call them Tuk Tuk), but I ventured out on a bike like many Europeans.

As the tuk-tuks, or txopelas, reach Maputo's ramshackle fringes, people rush to grab their copies, chasing after the moving vehicles with outstretched arms and crowding around them when they stop.

There was a great tooting and clanging, and a fire engine rumBling past.