Embracing his new calling as a nutritional moralist, Graham traveled the country inveighing against red meat, fats, alcohol, salt, sweets, condiments, tobacco, and white bread.

And then one day, we both ordered sandwiches from the same place and he got my lettuce-and tomato on whole wheat which of course he was allergic to, and I got his lettuce and tomato on white.

One critic has christened the two types of authors "palefaces" and "redskins," taking Henry James and walt Whitman as representative figures.