There are few physical remnants: some shrunken schools, a vast underground ammunition store, one surviving Americans-only subsidised supermarket and well-tended military cemeteries.

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They've been persuaded to remove the ammunition stockpile, but they're still using the caves to store sack-loads of wheat.

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Ammunition was sold outdoors, in cartons, as in the fastener aisle of a hardware store.

NEWYORKER: Battleground America