Near Christmas, volunteers put on a dazzling display of lights and, on the day before Christmas Eve, The Ship Inn cooks up a traditional dish of stargazy pie in honour of local lad Tom Bawcock, who supposedly ended a village famine by braving storms to land a bounty of fish.
The best dish of all was a large duck bistayeea, a delicious pastry-covered pie with layers of duck and Moroccan spices, which was partially inspired by a dish Ms. Gyngell served using pigeons.