At the time-warped Palms Grill Cafe, thick slabs of gooseberry, peach and sour cream raisin tempt from a glass case, while the Andrews Sisters croon from the stereo.
After all (as the board points out), it worked for the Chinese gooseberry, a hairy rarity until New Zealand's farmers banded together and propelled the kiwi fruit on to the world's dessert trolleys.