Half an hour later, room service arrived with still and sparkling Voss--"just in case you don't like that kind, " said its bearer, winning me over with his wide grin as he motioned toward the pitcher of cucumber-mint water on the table.

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Finally, the roar of the Colorado River comes into earshot and a tempestuous rush of mint-green water races through the nadir of the canyon.

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The Mint Julep is the traditional drink of the Kentucky Derby, and the recipe calls for little more than bourbon with some sugar, water and mint.

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