The guide sets the rigs: a squid-mimicking "hoochie" lure, a studded 10-pound sinker on a quick-release clip, and a trailing "flasher"--a laminated card, gaudily reflective, like something that snags your eye at a used-car lot.

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Part Gothic cathedral, part Teutonic fortress, part sultan's palace, its roofline is a riot of spires, beehive water towers and gaudily tiled domes, and its flanks are decorated with heraldic symbols and heroic-scale frescoes of the hospital's benefactors.

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Some arrived on gaudily decorated chariots.

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