When he made "Kind of Blue" in the late '50s, he was already a superstar in music, having led the way through the genres of hard bop and cool.

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Its sound is part of that hard bop tradition, but it's also part New York hustle and part writer's workshop, all of it redolent with the aroma of newness.

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The musician was a leading hard-bop trumpeter - a jazz extension of bebop - in the mid-1950s.

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In the late '80s and early '90s, he returned to playing hard-bop on several albums for the Landmark label, which also featured saxophonists Kenny Garrett and Joe Henderson.

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Another older Shinjuku gem is Jazz Pub Michaux, a bar whose white-bearded, kimono-and-Mongolian-cap-wearing 76-year-old owner has 4, 500 records of hard-bop and soul-jazz, including a large collection of rare vinyl by artists like Baby Face Willette and Groove Holmes.

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